Not quite the easiest of sports for Londoners to pickup... but there's always Brighton on a windy day to think of! Even if it isn't Britain, we can dream of sunny shores.
Rent A Surfboard
Rent a soft surfboard your first time out. Don't invest in your own surfboard if you've never tried surfing before. At most beaches good for surfing, rental spots will be available close to the beach, offering reasonably cheap rental options, by the hour or by the day.
You'll usually be able to choose between fiberglass boards and soft surfboards, sometimes called “soft tops” or "foamies." Soft surfboards are lightweight and much cheaper than epoxy or fiberglass boards. Soft boards are extremely buoyant and durable, making them a good choice for beginners.
Your size and weight will contribute to determining which type of board you should learn on. The more weight you have, the bigger the board volume you will need. You may not have a good experience learning to surf if you are trying to learn on a board that is too small for you.
If you're not sure what you want, talk to people at the surf shop. Be honest and tell them that you're a first-timer and you want to know what you need to get started.
Suit Up
Get a wetsuit. In many places, a wetsuit is just as essential as the board itself to ensure an enjoyable surfing experience. The wetsuit keeps your body warm in cold water, helping prevent chills and hypothermia. If the local surf shop recommends a wetsuit, get fitted and rent or purchase one before you hit the beach.
Practice Getting Wavey
"Taking off"(or “popping up”) on the wave and standing up on the board takes a bit of practice. While lying on the board, bring your hands up from paddling and place your hands below your chest, palms on the flat of the board while your fingers curl over the sides of the surfboard.
In one quick motion, push your body up with your arms and tuck your feet up and under you. Place one foot where your hands pushed up from and the other at least a shoulder’s width behind.
As you are beginning, you may find it easier to get up to your knees first and then bring up one foot at a time until you are in a standing position. It's slower than the jump up, but it works effectively for someone not ready for the jump up.
Never grab the rails, or edges, of the board during your take off, unless you want to get a nice gash on your chin when your hands slip off your rail.
If you find your hands or feet slipping when you try to get up, you may need to rub more wax on your board.
You can practice jumping up without a surfboard present, so feel free to do it wherever you have a bit of space until you feel comfortable doing it.
Now Stand Up
Once you've taken off, keep your knees bent, your arms loose and extended, your feet planted on the board, and your torso leaned forward to lower your center of gravity.
Depending on which foot comes naturally in front, you'll be either a "regular foot" or "goofy foot." Regular foot means that your left foot is in front, while goofy foot means your right foot leads.
Beginners have a tendency to adopt a squatty stance when learning. Their feet are widely spread apart from bow to stern of their boards. This might feel comfortable, but it actually makes it harder to control. Balance is side-to-side, not front to back. You will notice that experienced surfers usually ride with their feet much closer together.
A proper stance includes keeping your eyes looking in the direction you are going.
Practice on the ground first. Attach the leash to your back foot and to the tail of your board, then lie belly-down on the board so that your body is lined up straight down the middle of the board. From this position, practice your paddling motion with both arms to get a sense of the muscles that you will be working.
If you're right-handed, your back foot will generally be your right foot. This is called "regular" stance. It's called "goofy" stance when the leash is on your left foot. When in doubt, just do what feels most natural.
Don't just jump into the water when you're first learning to surf, or you'll get frustrated quickly. Take a little bit of time to practice on the sand, or in the privacy of your backyard, before you're on the beach in front of others.
Catch A Wave
Hit the water and start paddling and try to catch the wave. When you have a good sense of the speed and motion of the wave and you feel that sense that you've caught its momentum, take off using the techniques you've been practising.
Keep looking forward as you paddle. When you turn around, you lose power.
Be quick. You want to catch the wave before it breaks, so you have time to get up on the board. It is often common for beginners to catch and ride the “white water” (which is a fine way to begin).
Be patient. If you miss a wave, just paddle back out and wait for the next likely candidate.
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